Big Island east shore evening,
rich tropical deep green shadow.
Late sun dappling through the palms,
scattering bright shafts in the shade.
Benign warm air, warm water welcoming
with its smell of life’s beginning.
Waves, swells rolling in from out there,
playful confusion, energy in motion.
Swell outside rising, darkens, promising,
turn quickly, get down, paddle hard.
Familiar stiff push from behind, stand.
Crest lifts, the fluid hillside appears.
Flying now, down the glass smooth slope.
Balance is right on, lean to turn
far out over the shining dark surface,
rock and coral bottom, mottled green light.
Time slows perceptibly, then dramatically.
Smooth bottom turn glides by underfoot
there is no end, time ceases.
Exquisite infusion of life force.